Tragedy on Broad Peak

I always hesitate to post about climbing accidents too early, as there is a tremendous amount of misinformation in the mainstream media and especially on social media; thus, this is a preliminary p…

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K2 2026: Summits on other 8000ers, Wind Stall K2

The Karakorum continues to be quiet as we approach the end of July. There have been summits only on Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. High winds have hampered attempts on K2, while other issues have emerged on GI and Broad Peak.

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2026 Everest Trends with Steve House and Martin Zhor

Alan Arnette and Uphill Athlete coach Martin Zoerr break down the record-breaking 2026 Everest season — icefall delays, drone bans, death toll, training standards, and what's ahead for 2027.

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K2 2026: Weather Delays Small Teams across Karakorum

In a quiet season, with poor weather stalling progress, there is climbing across the Karakorum. While the first summits of this 2026 summer season on Nanga Parbat feel like a long time ago, a few teams have reached several of Pakistan's five 8,000-meter peaks and are on their summit bids. What's different about this season is the lack of huge (50+ clients with 50+ Sherpas); instead, small, even solo professional climbers, many climbing without oxygen or Sherpa support - in other words, low-cost base–camp only services from budget Pakistani operators. Kind of feels like the good old days, ten to fifteen years ago. #k2026

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K2 2026: Coverage Begins & First Summits

In a quiet season, climbing across the Karakorum is underway, with the first summits of this 2026 summer season on Nanga Parbat. A few teams reached several of Pakistan's five 8,000-meter peaks. #k2026

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7000m+ In-Nepal Everest Requirement Takes Another Step Forward – But Not Passed – Yet

Over the past two years, Nepal’s government and the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation have been working on a sweeping Tourism Bill that includes new rules for casinos, hospitality, and mountaineering. The key proposed rule for Everest mountaineers is the requirement to have summited a 7,000-meter-or-higher peak in Nepal before receiving an Everest permit. #everest2027

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“Green Boots” Coming Home

In 1996, three Indian climbers died on the Tibetan side of Everest. One became known as "Green Boots" and was macabrely used as a route marker for 30 years. That's about to come to an end.

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Podcast with Madalin (Cris) Cristea–Sea to Summit to Sea

Romanian Madalin (Cris) Cristea, 34, didn't just "summit" Everest on May 20; he summited after walking 1,125 kilometers (approx. 700 miles), starting on March 4th, 2026, from the village of Digha, India, on the Indian Ocean. Oh, then he walked back, covering 2,000 km (1,242 miles) over more than 100 days. In this Podcast, we discuss his journey and the two other seas to summit to sea climbs and his plans. If you would like to be notified when my memoir, "Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I'm still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: 

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Denali 2026 Coverage: Podcast with Summiteer – John Bartlic

The Denali 2026 season is well underway, with a dated climber report as of June 1, 2026, of 513 climbers, mainly on the West Buttress route. 97 climbers have completed their trips, and 381 are left to check in and begin their climbs. One team that did summit was one from American Alpine Institute and Summit Coach client, John Bartlic John, a Southwest Airlines pilot living in Dallas, Texas, is relatively new to mountaineering, with a Rainier summit last year and a Pico de Orizaba summit a few months ago. His next includes Kilimanjaro and Everest. We discussed everything from motivation, training, gear, clothing and weather to logistics and had a special remembrance of Mayor Stubbs of Talkeetna, Alaska, who died in 2017. I met Stubbs in 2007 on a climb. #Denali2026 If you would like to be notified when my memoir, "Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I'm still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: 

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Everest 2026: Missing Sherpa Found Alive

After six days isolated above base camp, Dawa "Hillary" Sherpa, 52, was found alive after rescuing himself. He had fallen into a crevasse near Camp 1 at around 19,500 feet, was trapped for two days, crawled out and then descended the Khumbu Icefall despite the ladders having been removed. He was found by members of the SPCC staff, Bhim Bhattarai and Durga Rai, in an extremely weak condition near Crampon Point, but conscious. He has frostbite on his fingers, is verbal, and is now in a hospital in Kathmandu in good condition. #everest2026 If you would like to be notified when my memoir, "Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I'm still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: 

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Everest 2026: Season Summary – Records, Crowds, Trash & Winds

Welcome to my annual Everest summary, where I review what happened and who did what. Quirky. That's my word for Everest 2026. Or perhaps, "normal." The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close. There were delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, moments of concern and challenging climbing. Despite the dramatic headlines in the mainstream press, it was actually a fairly normal season, as evidenced in part by roughly 80% of this year's 1,008 summits occurring between May 17th and May 26th, consistent with historical trends. The Himalayan Database will publish what I consider to be the definitive results later this year. #everest2026 If you would like to be notified when my memoir, "Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I'm still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: 

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Everest 2026: : Last Summits?

We might have the final commercial summits in sporadic wind episodes, with more predicted. The no Os climbers had mixed results, as did the runners. Popular American no O's climber, Justin Sackett, turned back near the Balcony, while Kristin Harila summited with no Os—also, an update on what qualifies for a no-supplemental-use-of-oxygen climb. The Icefall Docs say they will remove the ladders on the 29th.  The final total for the Everest- Nepal side summit will most certainly top 1,000, including members, guides and Sherpas.  #everest2026

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Everest 2026: Another Wave of Summits

We had at least 50 more summits on Monday morning, May 25th, 2026. I'm estimating there have been over 900 summit in total by members, guides and Sherpas. With only a few teams left, we are seeing the end of the season coming into view in breezy conditions, with those left targeting the 27th. The Icefall Docs say they will remove the ladders on the 29th. #everest2026

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Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update – Nearing the End

With the ropes to Everest and, now, Lhotse in place, there were multiple summits, including records on Sunday morning, May 17, 2026. With the weather improving, the route in, team after team has left base camp to be in position for their summit. While the major impact of the jet stream has passed, fragments could still create bitter windchill and frostbite, so climbers will need to be prepared to bail if the jet stream suddenly returns. The Everest summits for the season total is around 86, with 54 Sherpas and 32 clients.  The ratio is skewed by the large rope team, entirely comprised of Sherpas. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest. #everest2026

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Everest 2026: A Few More Summits, Speed Runner is Climbing

We had more summits overnight, and the no Os climbers and runners are on their way. American trail runner Tyler Andrews departed from Everest Base Camp at 8:25 pm local time on Friday evening to attempt to set the record for the fastest ascent and descent to the summit without using supplemental oxygen. You can follow him on his site.  #everest2026

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Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2, 2 More Deaths

A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught up with Garrett at Everest Camp 2, 21,500 feet, during their summit push. They are targeting May 25, just a few days away. I wanted to talk to him about icefall conditions and delays, the changing rules around the jet stream, and more. I hope you enjoy. We had more summits overnight, including yet another multi-summit record.  #everest2026

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Everest 2026: The Western Team’s Turn, My Summit Anniversary

After a Nepal-side record 274 summits on May 20, it's time for the Western teams to take their turn. As we've discussed, the Nepali operators follow the rope team as quickly as possible to summit, while the foreign (i.e., Western) operators wait until the last possible weather window, which is now. On a personal note, this is the anniversary of my Everest summit, and I'm announcing my upcoming memoir: Hard or Impossible? Summitting K2 for Ida.  #everest2026

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Everest 2026: May 20 Summit Recap

More summits!  Report after report had the Nepal side of Everest with massive crowds, probably over 150. A few teams have reported in, but we will need to wait for the official summit start to measure how big Wednesday morning, May 20, was. And there are many more to come, at least another 200.  #everest2026

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Everest 2026: Ski Descent and More Summits

More summits! The forecast of high winds may have kept many teams on hold, but we still saw a few summits on Tuesday, May 19, 2026. I'll update the totals when we know more.  #everest2026

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Everest 2026: Weather Alert and More Summits

Despite sporadic winds and a scary weather forecast, Monday, May 18, 2026, saw scores of summits on Everest and a few on Lhotse. The jetstream remains an issue, so I did a brief podcast with meteorologist Chris Tomer, who described the situation as "erratic."  #everest2026

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Everest 2026: Ropes Reach Summit, Time to Wait

After weeks of delays, the rope fixers finally reached the summit of Everest with the fixed line. However, the jet stream is about to sit over the summit for the next few days, making any attempts dangerous, if not deadly. It turned out that there were members stationed at the South Col, hoping to draft off the fixers and reach the summit—6 members did just that.  #everest2026

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Everest 2026: Everest Death, Lhotse Summit

The Himalayan death toll is now at five, with two Everest climbers and one trekker on his way to climb Everest. An impromptu rope-fixing team has reached the Balcony around 8400 meters and expects to hand off to the regular rope fixers to continue to the summit by the 13th. Multiple reports say the route from base camp to Camp 2 is one of the best in years. #everest2026

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Everest 2026: May 10 Weekend Update – Ropes to South Col, Everest Death

The rope fixers got the fixed line to the South Col on Friday, May 8, 2026 and are on track to reach the summit by the 13th or earlier. As predicted, some Nepali teams have already positioned members at the Col to attempt the summit as the lines get there. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. A Sherpa died in the Icefall. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest. #everest2026

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Everest 2026: Early Warning?

The weather is bad on Everest. Heavy snow at EBC with high winds at Cmap 2. The rope fixing team is hunkering down until it passes. The good news is that this appears to be a short-term event. Now for the bad news. Meteorologists, Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions told me today, Thursday, May 7, 2026, in Nepal: #everest2026

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Everest 2026: Two Injured in Icefall, Serac Still There

A small avalanche off Everest's West Shoulder fell onto the Khumbu Icefall, injuring two. It's a gift that there weren't more. The ropes reached Camp 3 today, keeping them on schedule to reach Everest's summit around May 14, and also Lhotse's summit. Multiple teams are now at Camp 2 for acclimatization, and Camp 3 has been established–particularly good for the no O's climbers. #everest2026

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Everest 2026: May 3 Weekend Update – Climbing!

The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. Sherpas have established Camp 2, also known as Advanced Base Camp, with tents and other supplies. They will begin stocking it with an oxygen bottle soon. Teams have started their acclimatization rotations to Camps 1 and 2. The ropes are expected to reach the summit around May 14th. Everest permits are nearing 2024's record of 479, generating nearly $7 million in permit revenue alone. #everest2026

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Everest 2026: Route to Camp 2 In—with Risks

The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. The serac has not completely fallen, so it brings the question of how much risk each individual - client and Sherpa is willing to take? While the route to Camp 1 is about two weeks late, there is still plenty of time this season, so, regardless of what you may read, the Everest 2026 season is not at risk—anymore. #everest2026

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Everest 2026: April 27 Weekend Update – Icefall Route In?

After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100 patients thus far this season. It's over for Ryan Mitchell. #everest2026

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Everest 2026: April 19 Weekend Update – 8000er Summits, Icefall Woes

After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100 patients thus far this season. It's over for Ryan Mitchell. #everest2026

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