Greg de St. Maurice

@gdsm.bsky.social

Cultural anthropology • Food studies • Japanese studies • Craft, cuisine, place, branding, design

The bus will return in 90 minutes. I have that much time to watch the sky’s colors intensify and darken, the stars appear, and the nearby lighthouse’s beam sweep through the dark landscape. I can hear insects and the waves on both sides.

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As much as people talk about native and foreign or imported and domestic, I love those Japanese sweets that totally draw on European culinary culture. Chocolate manju, milk manju, I appreciate you.

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The other day, I was telling friends and family how a housewife originated these Tokyo Metro transfer and exit guides, and they thought I was kidding. It used to be a well-known story. If you don't know it, here's a quick summary.

Photo of a Nanboku Line 乗り換え 出口案内 (transfer and exit guide) on a station platform.

In 1987, on the eve of the release of Studio Ghibli's Grave of the Fireflies, director Takahata Isao sat down for an interview with Nosaka Akiyuki, the author who penned the semi-autobiographical novel on which the film is based. A few highlights from their totally fascinating discussion:

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I saw this woman feeding stray dogs in Patan, Nepal. They knew who she was and all but one went over to her immediately. Seeing so many strays was sad, but they clearly weren’t afraid of people. I saw some in stores, hanging out. At night, some of them were sleeping in the middle of the street.

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Nepal has been one discovery after another. This one is chhang: a fermented rice beverage low in alcohol. The taste varies from family to family. This one has a lactic acid flavor with vegetal and herbal notes.

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