Jay Rayner

@jayrayner1.bsky.social

Eats and writes for The Financial Times. Piano for the JR Sextet; chairs Kitchen Cabinet for R4. Doesn’t accept comps. jay.rayner@ft.com https://linktr.ee/jayrayner1

It’s unboxing time as I get my hands on beautiful Burgundy-bound copies of my new baby, Nights Out In The Kitchen, a sequel to Nights Out At Home. Published Sep 3. Find a link to preorder in my Linktree in bio.

Ah, my favourite PR approach: the one suggesting I review the restaurant to which I gave an absolute slating less than a year ago, because a quick google is far too much trouble.

Bolero is an extraordinary piece of music: a soloist’s piece, for orchestra; a rhythmic exercise; a vibe. But right now I just keep thinking about the percussionist on the snare, and how Ravel must just have hated drummers.

Have some pics to go with this. The crab and avocado salad presented as a baffled girl in a bonnet, the £13 tarama with the £9 bread basket (bought in from elsewhere), the broccoli with dessert sweet praline and the Guinness madeleine looking like a gift from my cat. More info in alt text.

“From a menu section headed “All In Social/Sea”, which really is just more word spaghetti, we have “crab salad/rocket mayonnaise/elderflower/avocado soup”. It arrives looking like a face wearing a sloppy bonnet of flowers and is a massive hit of saltiness, which makes the crab taste like tinned tuna. There are underripe cubes of avocado, and soggy rice crackers.”“Dinner starts with a £13 bowl of over-whipped cod’s roe which comes unaccompanied. So yes, you must also order the £9 basket of bought-in bread. The tarama is topped with a swirl of “kaffir lime sauce” which makes it taste like an aromatherapy candle by Jo Malone, and not in a good way. A bright-eyed waiter arrives to ask us if we’ve enjoyed our meal. We point out that we  haven’t really had it yet. ““Marvellous, marvellous, marvellous,” he says. He didn’t sound convinced.”“A plate of blameless Tenderstem broccoli is slathered in dessert-sweet praline, then presented far to the side of the plate, like it’s the swept-up wreckage from a car crash. ““Swirls of over-set chocolate mousse come with a viciously bitter malt ice cream and a coal black and very dry “Guinness” madeleine which looks like a gift left behind by my cat.”
Jay Rayner@jayrayner1.bsky.social · 3w ago

For today’s @ftweekend.com I went to Jul’s, a frankly weird, charmless, over priced calamity of a restaurant in st james’s. I did this so you wouldn’t have to. Have the first paragraph and a link. www.ft.com/content/b5eb...

Leaving a hotel bar an American woman says “it’s you isn’t it”. I nod politely and move on before, curious, turning on my heels and asking who exactly she thinks I am. “Penn Jillette?” Look. It’s better than Gadaffi.

A quick head's up for anyone coming to tomorrow nights Kitchen Cabinet record in London's Chelsea. You will have received an email but just in case, we have pulled the recording time forward to 6.30pm because of the England game.

Some of the reporting today both by journalists and across social media suggests too many people either don’t understand common law contempt of court or simply don’t care.

Just received a breathless press release from a Danish restaurant which says the kitchen decided to apply the principles of jazz to cooking. As someone with a size 12 foot firmly inserted deep in both camps, my conclusion, having read it all, is: they are not musicians.

Bild

There has been some speculation as to why I haven’t been seen in and around Madison Square Garden for Taylor and Travis’s wedding. I just want to clear the air. No beef. No drama. I just don’t know them and so wasn’t invited. Please respect my privacy at this difficult time.