Chris

@elfkin.bsky.social

It’s all about #sewing, #art, #fashion, and #lgbtq shenanigans. The elf in the custom #couture #tailoring business Elfkin (https://elfk.in). Made with parts from 🇬🇷🇬🇧🇩🇪. It should go without saying that all Black and trans lives matter.

File under: there’s a first time for everything. In 40+ years of buying and #sewing fabric, this is 1st time I’ve seen any mark on a plain weave fabric to indicate the facing (“wrong”) side. Related: pinholes in the selvage will always feel flat on the facing side and bumpy on the right side.

The corner of a swath of pink fabric stamped with “FACE SIDE” in blue ink held above the tub of a washing machine.

I’ve been using the three kaftans that Bernie ordered this year as an excuse to finally get my head around the commercial technique for bias binding a neckline (no pins, pretty mitres, only ironing at the very end). And y’all, I’ve seen the light. #sewing

Elfkin generally relies upon pre-transistor technology, but I let some modern tech in. To wit, MySQL is fab for keeping track of ~200 bobbins for 4 different #sewing machines. Thus begins 30 linear yards (27.4 meters) of side hemming on the fabrics for Bernie's kaftans. #fashion #ElfkinCouture

A laptop screen opened to show a database table of bobbins in front of three individual and separate piles of folded fabric. Left-to-right: purple and yellow hibiscus on white; stylized 1960s-ish orange and pink flowers on shimmery gold; red and white magnolia flowers on French blue. Next to the laptop, three bobbin cases fanned out next to a rotary bobbin holder.

For those following along on my accompanying side quest to master the standard commercial #sewing method for dress shirts, it took me 2 hours after lunch to attach and finish sleeves, close and finish side seams, and attach the collar. Slow by factory standards but warp speed in the Elfkin workroom!

Chris@elfkin.bsky.social · 2mo ago

The rose sample of the forthcoming ready-to-wear (in sizes XS-XXL) #DandyShirt approaches completion with just the cuffs left to attach. The hunter green sample is somewhat less integrated but will come together in no time. #sewing #fashion

A mostly assembled rose pink dress shirt with pink floral accents on the yoke, under collar, collar band, and cuffs. It’s very tall French cuff pieces lie atop it, flat and unattached. To the left and behind the rose shirt, its twin in dark green lies in a neat pile of pieces.

WeHo City is piloting municipal fiber internet along our stretch of Sunset Boulevard. Which I love! Less enjoyable, the stereo jackhammer crews working at two different corners of our block. It’s been going for 90 minutes straight. <eye twitch>

As one does on a Monday morning, I’m timing my two buttonhole-capable machines to see which is fastest. The old 201 stitches a buttonhole ~2.3x faster than the new HD6800. Even if a double pass buttonhole on the 201, is *still* ~20% faster. And I repeat: vintage #sewing machines are the best.

A modern, gray plastic sewing machine next to a vintage black enamel sewing machine.

Step 2 of the quick quick pro shirt #sewing method is the same as any good method: prep the collars, sleeves, and cuffs. A big difference is that the collar and cuffs are finished on all edges except where they attach to the body. For those keeping track, this took me 1.25 hours.

Prepped pieces on a table.

My experiments in home made Earl Grey tea continue. Ready for sampling this morning is a super floral blend that is, naturally, primarily bergamot with the addition of rose, orange blossom, and Fiori di Sicilia. I. Am. In. Heaven. #food

Oh hey, did I mention that I picked up a new #ElfkinCouture customer out of the blue yesterday? A former colleague is back on the dating scene after a long hiatus and wants to look his best. He’s a triathlete, so I won’t have to work *that* hard at it.

This Chinese perfume plant (Aglaia odorata) is no great garden beauty, but the fragrance! It’s hard to beat year round blooms that smell of lemon zest. Though marketing chains that it “thrives on neglect” are a total crock. #gardening

Bild

The first batch of home made Earl Grey tea has been brewed into a cuppa, and OMG!!! Utterly delicious as milk tea. My only regret is waiting all of these years to try doing this. #food

Old Zak is fitted with his straight stitch foot, and all of the pieces are prepped for a muslin of the ready-to-wear #DandyShirt. It’s another chance to practice the super fast shirt #sewing technique that I’m trying to master. <cracks knuckles>

Pieces of a button up shirt lay on a table next to an old industrial sewing machine.

I'm adapting my #DandyShirt design to ready-to-wear in standard sizes. If you've followed me for any amount of time, you know that I have Thoughts™ about standard sizes. Not nice thoughts. But there's no escaping them now. I may need a Silkwood shower when I'm done here.